A dairy farmer in Wales fears his stolen Hafod Welsh Cheddar, worth approximately $365,000, may be sold in Russia or the Middle East after a scam involving Neal’s Yard Dairy.
In a shocking scam that has left the artisan cheese community reeling, Patrick Holden, owner of Holden Farm Dairy in Wales, fears that two-and-a-half tonnes of his award-winning Hafod Welsh Cheddar may end up on the black market in Russia or the Middle East. Holden Farm Dairy, known for its high-quality cheddar made from a century-old recipe, was among the suppliers affected when London-based Neal’s Yard Dairy unknowingly delivered nearly a thousand wheels of cheese—worth an estimated £300,000 (approximately $365,000)—to an alleged thief posing as a French wholesale distributor.
Holden expressed his shock, noting that the order was the largest his farm had ever received. “Our cheese is limited in quantity, but we had stored enough to fill this big order,” Holden told The Independent. However, he said that the thieves “covered their tracks,” using a warehouse on London’s outskirts as a drop-off point before transporting the cheese to an unknown location.
Holden suspects the cheese could end up in regions where there may be less scrutiny over the origins of goods. “There are many Russians who value quality food,” he added, “and since the start of the war with Ukraine, access to such products has been restricted.” Stressing that he was speculating, he added, “This is why you need to know the story behind the food you eat.”
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The theft has raised concerns within the artisan cheese industry about maintaining trust in customer relationships. Holden emphasized the values of integrity and transparency in the community, saying, “We believe your word is your bond. The whole artisan cheese community believes in trading honestly.”
Neal’s Yard Dairy, headquartered in Southwark, London, has been cooperating with the Metropolitan Police and international authorities to track down the scammers. The company also committed to honoring payments to its suppliers despite the loss. Neal’s Yard Dairy expressed its gratitude to the community, saying, “We are truly touched that so many people in the artisan cheese community and beyond are standing with us. It’s a reminder of why we love the work we do.”
Celebrity chef Jamie Oliver also took to Instagram, urging fans to look out for any “posh cheese going for cheap” and calling it a “real shame” that some of the best cheddar cheese in the world had been stolen.
The Metropolitan Police continue to investigate, but for Holden, the incident has shed light on the vulnerabilities faced by small producers in an increasingly complex food market.